Golf Irons

What is an iron?

A iron is a club with a flat, fairly thin metal head. It’s the largest family in the bag: you use an iron for most shots aimed at the green, whether from the fairway, the rough, or sometimes from the tee on a par-3 hole.

The irons are sold in series, most often irons 4 or 5 through 9, supplemented by the pitching wedge. Each iron has a number engraved beneath the head.

What does an iron number mean?

The number indicates the club's position in the series. When it increases:

• the loft (the angle of the face relative to the vertical) increases;
• the handle is a little shorter;
• The ball goes higher, stops faster, and doesn't travel as far.

From one iron to the next, the loft generally changes by 3 to 5 degrees, and the distance by about 10 yards. The number is not a standard: a 7-iron from one brand does not necessarily have the same loft as a 7-iron from another.

What are the lofts of the irons?

Lofts have decreased significantly over the past twenty years or so, especially in clubs designed for distance. The values below are approximate:

To find out your specifications, refer to the manufacturer's technical data sheet.

Short, medium, and long irons: What's the difference?

• Short irons (8 and 9): the easiest to play. High trajectory, the ball stops quickly; aim for precision near the flag.
• Medium-sized irons (5, 6, and 7): the core of the irons set for intermediate distances.
• Long irons (2, 3, and 4): Low loft; the ball is hard to get airborne. Many amateurs replace them with hybrids, more tolerant.

Why is the 7-iron a benchmark club?

The iron 7 It falls right in the middle of the range: long enough to require a full swing, yet open enough to get the ball airborne with ease. It’s often the first club given to a beginner, the one used to warm up, and the one that serves as a benchmark when trying out new equipment.

Forged irons or cavity-back irons: Which should you choose?

There are two main types of heads:

• The blades (or “muscle back”): full back, compact head, usually forged. They offer great feel and control over the ball’s flight, but are less forgiving on off-center hits. They’re best suited for skilled players.
• Hollow irons (“cavity back”): The back of the clubhead is hollowed out, and the weight is distributed toward the perimeter of the clubhead. A shot hit off-center loses less distance and accuracy. This is the choice of most amateur golfers.

“Forged” and “cast” describe the manufacturing process, not the shape: there are forged cavity-back irons. Within both categories, many sets combine more compact short irons with more forgiving long irons.

How Can You Play Your Irons Well?

• Ball in the center of the stance For short irons, position them slightly closer to the front foot; for long irons, position them slightly farther from the front foot.
• Hands slightly in front of the ball at address and the impact.
• Hit the ball before it hits the ground: With an iron, the club head continues to move downward as it makes contact with the ball and takes a small divot behind it. There's no need to try to “lift” the ball—the loft takes care of that.
• Knowing Your Distances with each iron, measured at the driving range or on the course.